Part of my recovery depends on staying grounded. For me, this is completely unplugging and disconnecting from my day-to-day life. Working full time, having a huge family, and a slight case of FOMO from my friends always doing fun things make this somewhat challenging. My solution is to go to places where I don’t have a choice. Phenomenal places with limited or no service- national parks.
One of the positive things coming out of the inability to travel internationally during the pandemic was the chance to visit some of the parks on top of my list. I even got the official US National Parks Passport and filled it with stamps from Volcanoes in Hawaii, Glacier in Montana, and Joshua Tree in the High Desert of California. This is my experience on my first solo sober trip to the incredible, awe-inspiring Joshua Tree National Park.
To Solo or Not To Solo …
In February of this year, I found myself just a few miles short of my American Airlines status with only a few weeks to make it happen. I still couldn’t go to the East Coast because of snow. And Joshua Tree was calling my name. Due to work schedules, family obligations, and whatever else, none of my go-to fellow outdoor explorers could make the trip. I was hesitant to go alone. I had never solo traveled outside of Texas and I watch Dateline regularly.
Despite the multiple disappearances, unfortunate run-ins with Mother Nature, and freak accidents that regularly occur in national parks, I decided to just do it. I compartmentalized all the potential ways I could meet my maker on the trip, booked my flights, and started researching all the weird and wonderful things I’d see in California’s High Desert. It turns out, there’s a lot of weird out there- Desert Christ Park, ghost towns turned tourist attractions, Joshua Tree Dinosaurs, Skull Rock, and The Beauty Bubble Salon and Museum to name just a few.
It Was Never Easy to Find What I Was Looking For
I rented a car but cell and internet service in the High Desert is spotty at best. Without Google, I was never 100% sure where I was going or even if I was going in the right direction. Another potential prime contributing factor to my very own Dateline story in the making. It was an experience in constantly exercising Step 3, turning everything over to God, moment by moment in almost every situation. After weaving through neighborhoods on several unmarked sand roads, I found my first stop, the groundbreaking Noah Purifoy Outdoor Desert Art Museum. This is completely worth the drive. It’s full of thought-provoking installations all made of upcycled materials, including toilets. Lots of toilets. But I guess art is art. I am the queen of weird roadside attractions and I recommend this stop to see it for yourself.
Next, on to my motel. I wanted to stay as close to the park as possible, so I picked High Desert Motel. Helpful hint: Avoid contributing to your own murder mystery. When the man from the hotel calls to confirm your reservation and asks if you are traveling alone, SAY NO! For some reason, I said yes and was freaked out about it the entire trip. But everything ended up fine. The window in the bathroom was constantly open even after I closed it, but it was clean, comfortable, and about as close as you can get to the West Entrance. I checked in, dropped my bags, added 2 more layers, and headed straight for the trip’s main event, Joshua Tree National Park.
I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For… or Have I?
Wide, open spaces. There is no better remedy for feeling like the walls are caving in. I saw the familiar national park stone welcome sign and there was an instant feeling of relief. I arrived at dusk so I got to see the sunset and the moon rise. Equally stunning and dramatic events competing for my attention. And I saw stars! So many stars. This is such a treat for a city girl like me. I also figured out how to use my night settings on my iPhone camera just in time to capture an unbelievable shot of the moon perfectly placed between the branches of a REAL Joshua Tree. I then sat in complete silence, in pure awe of my surroundings and my God. Nature has a way of making one feel extremely small. The idea that God created this kind of majestic beauty and still made me is quite humbling.
I felt so spiritually grounded. I completely forgot I was there alone. It did not feel like I was. I had nature and my God and felt whole. AND I got to hear U2’s Joshua Tree in Joshua Tree. U2 is my all-time favorite band so this is a BIG deal for me. Windows down, hair blowing, Bono and the boys blaring. U2 might never find what they are looking for but I think I might have. The moment could not have been more perfect.
Early to Bed, Early to Rise
I could have stayed under those stars all night. But with the hauntingly beautiful sound of the coyotes’ howls seemingly getting closer and not another human in sight, I thought it best to call it a night. I realized that I was kind of too excited to eat all day. Warning: Joshua Tree is a small town with very few dining options. Hit a grocery store on the way in. I didn’t prepare and ended up eating a sandwich from a gas station with some very questionable characters hanging around the front and even shadier-looking employees. Not the dinner I had planned but, I was too tired and content even for the pity party of one I thought I’d be having. I was fast asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. Thank God for rest like this.
5:30 am comes early. But I’m always happy to wake up and get ready for sunrise- one of the highlights of being in a national park. There are no streetlights in Joshua Tree so again, I was driving in complete darkness. Although a little disconcerting, it was pure solace. The stars were still out. I found a parking lot to enjoy the show. I was under a full dome of stars from horizon to horizon. About 30 minutes in, the coyotes started going nuts as I saw a single fire red line of light appear and then another. This was hands down the most phenomenal sunrise I have ever witnessed. Stunning hues of pink, red, orange, and yellow blazing across the sky. It was pure magic.
Heart-Shaped Rocker
As soon as I could see without a flashlight, I set out on a hike to Arch Rock. I was exploring the area when a girl asked me for directions to the arch. Not to brag but this means I looked like I knew what I was doing. Or maybe it was just that I was the only one there which may or may not have been true. I ran into her again on her way to look for Heart Rock. Of course, I invited myself to join her. We wandered around for a good 30 minutes searching for Heart Rock. BELIEVE ME, the irony of the situation was not lost even though we were. Honestly, it was too thick to ignore, Perpetually single and already apprehensive about solo travel, and now I’m wandering around looking for a heart-shaped rock in the desert. Just looking for love in all the wrong places. It’s the story of my life. But now I was actually wandering in the desert like the forsaken Israelites. I never found heart rock but I did make a new friend in Sandra.
Not Lost and a Few Things Gained
As it turns out, Sandra and I are both single and into writing, travel, and music. She ended up inviting me to go see a live band that night at Furstwurld. Not just a band, but a Led Zeppelin cover band. What the What?! I adore live music and Led Zeppelin is one of my top 3 favorite bands. Cool. I had to momentarily shelf this invite along with the idea that she could make tons of cash by luring people to house parties where an intricate crime ring leaves people in bathtubs of ice after harvesting all their organs to sell on the black market. I would have to figure that out later because I was deep in the park at Skull Rock and was now running late. I was going to meet a friend who I only knew from social media who lives in Yucca Valley. How cool is that? I am solo but I now have two friends on my journey. Sandra, the heart-shaped rocker chick, and Analisa Six, the super-cool, orange jeep driving, plant-based mystic of Joshua Tree.
Analisa is a fellow sober sister and Sobercast with Six contributor for The Sober Curator. For me, meeting up with another sober person is always grounding. We speak the same language and can instantly relate to one another. This type of connection really helps alleviate feelings of loneliness in new cities or even in your own city. Although she is way hipper than me, Analisa was immediately in when I randomly called to ask her if she wanted to meet in person. She is an unbelievably gracious host and showed me all the cool spots in Joshua Tree.
We grabbed coffee at The Dez, explored the Farmers Market, and hit the Joshua Tree National Park Visitor’s Center. This is where I got my park passport stamp in my official national park passport. Yay me! We stumbled upon a vinyl swap meet with free donuts and went to The Crochet Museum. Yes, this is a real thing and a very odd attraction you should check out if ever in the area. Analisa confirmed that I should go to Furstwurld. This made me feel way more confident about the evening plans I was pondering for myself. And now at least one person would know where I was that night. This would be useful in the investigation if I should disappear. My situation was getting better and better.
Down the Furstwurld Rabbit Hole
I almost backed out on the Furstwurld experience but I decided to just go for it. Again, I set out into the pitch-black night with no idea where I was going with no compass and no maps. As I turned down the long, dark, deserted road to Furstwurld I started feeling apprehensive. I figured I should at least send a text to my mom to tell her what I was doing but – no service. Perfect. I finally found the place. I took a tiny step inside and instantly knew Furstwurld was going to be one of my favorite travel experiences ever. And it absolutely was.
Avant guard art installations, twinkle lights, campfires, and a live music stage that looked like it was inside a bomb shelter. Everyone was uniquely living out loud. It was someone named Unicorn’s birthday. I met several Peter Pan-ish individuals from Atlanta, LA, and New York. I think I even saw a real-life Mad Hatter. The live music was incredible. Sandra was there photographing the event for Joshua Tree Voice. She introduced me to her friends and made me feel welcome. The entire experience was so quintessentially me. To top it all off, I learned that my spirit animal, Anthony Bourdain, had visited Furstwurld too. The evening was a complete gift from God. Unexpected and brilliantly bizarre. I loved every minute. I am so thankful that despite my unfounded fear, I had the courage to go.
Odd Roadside Attractions
Because I will never have my fill of odd attractions and I am on a never-ending search for unique experiences, the next morning I set off before sunrise for Bombay Beach, Salvation Mountain, and Slab City. But not without eating breakfast at the famous CrossRoads Café and hanging out with the giant, metal dinosaurs first. You can catch both of these on Twentynine Palms/Highway 62 on the way out of town.
Bombay Beach was once a real beach vacation destination for celebrities- legit lifestyles of the rich and famous. Currently, there is not a shred of evidence of this remaining. It’s an abandoned ghost town where Mad Max and hipsters collide. The result is a deserted resort town reclaimed by squatters, artists, and now tourists. The art is random and intelligent. It’s clever, witty, and always making a statement. The entire town including the beach is the canvas and nothing is off-limits. Around every corner is an Insta-worthy installation including a drive-in, a lithium store, a Tesla charging station, and a bus stop with ETA never. It’s a total trip- even sober. It’s a definite must if you are into street art like me.
Salvation and Must-See Slab City?
There is no way I could go to Joshua Tree and not see Salvation Mountain. I’ve watched countless documentaries and YouTube videos about this place. The founder Leonard Knight spent years creating the sculpture out of donated hay and paint. Inspired by a calling from God, the sculpture is covered with scripture. The main message is God is love. It is completely maintained by volunteers. Unfortunately, since Leonard died in 2014, the maintenance seems to have gone downhill. Even so, the story is incredible and it’s worth seeing. People come from all over the world to visit and receive the message of love. It’s literally the mountain built on love.
Salvation Mountain is technically in Slab City which is less than a mile up the road. I’m not sure I have adequate words to describe what is happening here. It is known as the last free place in America. You find a space and it’s yours even if someone else is already there. It is lawless and totally off the grid. There are no government services but “Slab City Justice” is a real thing and involves fire and burning places to the ground. They take “eye for an eye” both literally and seriously. There is no electricity or running water and it is a deserted military test facility in the desert where temperatures reach up to 120 degrees.
People there somehow make it work. The inhabitants survive largely on the barter system and donations. There are some make-shift establishments for the community like a live music venue, a library, several bars, the church of enlightenment, a coffee shop, a pet cemetery, an internet café run on solar, and even a skatepark.
East Jesus is what most outsiders come to see in Slab City. This is an open-air art exhibit created and maintained by the slab city dwellers. Made of all upcycled materials, the art is as fascinating as the inhabitants. The “curators” let us know that there had only been two homicides in the camp this week. And they probably were not kidding. I could have stayed and talked to the residents all day if it weren’t for the unbearable, nose hair-singing stench. I continued my research online and am now a member of the Slab City public Facebook group. Here I can find out about chili night, when the slab city cab is running, who has clothes to trade, lost pets, missing persons, and open mic nights. It’s a whole life I knew nothing about. And for good reason. I like being known and accounted for. I’m grateful for my running water and electricity and will work as hard as I can to keep them. I went, I saw, and can now say I survived Slab City solo and sober- both huge accomplishments.
I am a Solo Traveler!
At first, I was sad and a bit apprehensive about this solo trip. But then I realized these were expected, preprogrammed emotions that I did not have to feel. I talked to God and decided that with His help, I could make this experience something different. I was truly open to what God had for me and it turned out to be an incredible and most memorable travel experience that I could have never planned on my own.
So despite the shady motel, lack of cell service, dinner from the stranger danger gas station, and solo voyage into Slab City, I survived. No murder mystery here. And even better, I thrived. I will plan a solo trip again with no expectations and very few plans. Facing down my irrational fears and leaving room for what God has for me is a freeing and unpredictable experience that I now crave. It filled me with joy. Dealing with the unknowns and all the “what could happen” moments gave me a huge adrenaline rush. Being in nature, having unique experiences, and meeting new people is a natural high for me. I absolutely want more of this in my life. If you are considering taking a solo, sober trip- even a little, I say, GO FOR IT!
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