If your passport is begging for a new stamp and your soul is craving connection, Guatemala might be calling your name.
On a recent episode of The Sober Curator Podcast, I teamed up with our Senior Sober Curator Travel Journalist, Teresa Bergen, to chat with Philippa Myers, founder of SoberTravelRetreats.org. Philippa has called Antigua, Guatemala home since 1992, and she’s turned her decades in the travel industry and her long-term recovery into something pretty magical: eight-day sober journeys that blend cultural immersion, service, recovery principles, and serious fun.
National Geographic named Guatemala its #1 destination for 2025, and after hearing Philippa describe cobblestone streets, volcano views, Mayan ceremonies, and mocktails in colonial courtyards, we get why.
From Drunken Detour to Sober Destination
Philippa didn’t move to Guatemala with a five-year plan and a vision board.
Fresh out of university and not thrilled about jumping into the London rat race, she set off on a six-month backpacking trip through Mexico and Central America with a boyfriend who turned out to be… not her person. After the breakup, she found herself back in Antigua, staying in a cheap hotel with two other travelers and a guy named Ted who had driven down with 1,000 secondhand books and a dream of starting a bookstore.
On “one drunken night,” she volunteered to be his business partner.
That one wild decision led to:
- A secondhand bookstore in Antigua
- A café and live music space with a big fire pit
- A restaurant and top-rated travel agency
- And eventually, the life she still lives today in Guatemala
On the outside, she was the ultimate functioning entrepreneur. On the inside, she was in pain. People would tell her, “You look so tired,” and she’d blame it on work—while secretly fighting a losing battle with alcohol.
It took five years of trying to quit but not staying quit, plus a stay in a U.S. treatment center, for Philippa to understand that what she had wasn’t a moral failing—it was addiction. Once she had language for it, everything changed. She got sober nearly 20 years ago and hasn’t looked back.
A Sober Travel Vision Is Born
After decades running a travel agency and building a life in Antigua, Philippa realized she could combine:
- Her expertise in Guatemalan travel, and
- Her passion for sobriety and community
The result is SoberTravelRetreats.org, offering three types of eight-day journeys based in and around Antigua:
- General Recovery Retreats
Open to anyone in recovery or sober-curious, no matter what pathway you’re on. - LGBTQ+ Sober Retreats
Designed for LGBTQ+ travelers seeking a safe, affirming space to connect and explore in sobriety—especially meaningful in a time of global division and backlash. - Family & Loved Ones Retreats
For people who love someone with addiction or early recovery—whether that person is dearly loved or… more complicated. These journeys help family members process, connect, and find their own healing, whether or not their loved one is currently sober.
Each retreat is more journey than “sit-in-a-circle-all-day” retreat. There are circles and reflection, but there’s also:
- Cultural immersion
- Service projects
- Behind-the-scenes local experiences
- Laughter, mocktails, and real rest
Retreats are scheduled through 2025 and into 2026, with dates for different themes and groups, giving travelers plenty of time to plan and budget.
What a Typical Day Looks Like on Retreat
Think of these trips as sober adventure with a soulful backbone.
A sample day might include:
- Morning gentle stretching
Not hardcore yoga—Philippa calls it “gentle stretching” so everyone feels welcome, regardless of fitness level or flexibility. - Breakfast at the villa
The retreats are hosted in a 15-room villa Philippa’s team built in 2010, designed to feel like a centuries-old colonial home with exposed stone, brick, dark wood, wrought iron, courtyards, and a pool with a hot tub. - Morning circle
Guests gather in a circle, guided by 12-step principles like honesty, humility, trust, and service—whether or not they personally work a 12-step program. Philippa weaves these principles together with her own hard-earned wisdom in a way that’s accessible and non-dogmatic. - Afternoon outing
After lunch (often a packed lunch), the group heads out for a behind-the-scenes experience. That might be:- Installing a bunk bed for a local Mayan family so children no longer have to sleep on dirt floors
- Visiting an eco-bike project where old bicycles are transformed into pedal-powered machines—coffee grinders, washing “machines,” and water pumps for communities without electricity
- Exploring Mayan ruins and witnessing an authentic Mayan fire ceremony led by a shaman
- Meeting Mayan mystic figure Maimon, a unique and very off-the-beaten-path spiritual experience
- Evening connection & fun
Evenings might be:- A home-cooked dinner prepared by a private chef at the villa
- A night out at a vetted local restaurant with great food and proper mocktails
- Live Latin music and dancing
- Or a soak in the hot tub under Guatemalan skies
As Philippa puts it, “There’s really nothing somber about these trips.” The goal is for everyone to return home renewed, connected, and grateful—not just for the journey, but for their lives.
Antigua: UNESCO Beauty with Volcano Views
Antigua is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a classic Spanish colonial town built in the 16th century. Picture:
- Narrow cobblestone streets
- Crumbly, romantic church ruins from past earthquakes
- Color-coded facades in mustard yellow, red, cream, and pale blue
- Strict architectural rules—no giant billboards or flashing signs—so the historic character stays intact
- A leafy, bustling central square where Mayan women sell textiles from baskets balanced on their heads
Wherever you look, you see volcanoes framing the town. It’s compact—about 10 blocks by 10 blocks—but full of life, color, and culture. Antigua is also a great launchpad for Guatemala’s other highlights.
Day Trips & Extensions: Lakes, Ruins, Surf, and More
Retreats include special outings, and you can always arrive early or stay late to explore more.
Some options Philippa recommends:
- Lake Atitlán
Often described as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, Atitlán is ringed by volcanoes and Mayan villages. Retreat guests visit for the day, combining lake time with a stop at Mayan ruins and the powerful Mayan fire ceremony experience. - Tikal
If you’re a ruins nerd (hi, it’s us ????♀️), consider a 2-day extension to Tikal, the largest Mayan site in the Americas, where pyramids rise straight out of the jungle. - Pacific Coast surf towns
About two hours away, Guatemala’s Pacific coast offers surf breaks and chilled-out beach time. - Neighboring countries
Want to go all in? You can combine Guatemala with Belize (snorkeling, diving) or Costa Rica (jungles, wildlife).
Weather, Packing, and Practical Stuff
Climate:
Antigua’s weather is pretty stable year-round. Days are usually in the 70s to low 80s°F, with low humidity thanks to the city’s elevation. Nights can be cool enough for a light sweater or jacket.
There are two main seasons:
- Dry season
- Rainy season
Retreats are timed for comfort, but a compact rain layer is always a smart move.
Packing tips from Philippa:
- Keep it minimal — there’s a washer and dryer at the villa
- A few tops, a couple pairs of pants, and one slightly dressier outfit for dinners out
- Comfortable walking shoes
- A light jacket or sweater for evening
- Medications, journal, and a small daypack
- Clothing that respects local culture (covered shoulders, no ultra-short shorts if possible)
And if you love to shop? You’re in trouble—in a good way. Antigua has:
- A huge market just two blocks from the villa
- Gorgeous textiles, woven huipiles, bags, and jewelry
- Jade is a big deal here, and the designs are stunning
Philippa gently suggests tipping the scales away from aggressive bargaining. Paying a little more goes a long way for local artisans.
A Retreat with a Ripple Effect
These retreats aren’t just about flying in, taking photos, and flying out. Philippa is intentional about giving back.
Part of the proceeds from Sober Travel Retreats goes into a sober fund to help local Guatemalans who could never otherwise afford treatment or support. With limited resources and often harsh or heavily religious recovery options, this fund aims to create a kinder, more accessible path to sobriety in Guatemala.
When you book a trip, you’re not just investing in your own recovery—you’re helping someone else access theirs.
Pay-What-You-Can Launch Trips
For the launch retreats, Philippa is doing something incredibly generous:
- An LGBTQ+ retreat in November
- A Family & Loved Ones retreat in December
For these inaugural dates, she’s opened the remaining spaces on a pay-what-you-can basis.
If cost has been the barrier between you and a sober trip of a lifetime, this might be your moment. Philippa is willing to consider any reasonable offer and work with payment plans and budgets so price doesn’t have to be the thing that stops you.
“If You’re Sober and Miserable… You’re Missing the Point”
One of my favorite moments from our conversation was when Philippa laughed and said:
“Quite frankly, if you’re just going to get sober and be miserable, go out and get drunk again. This is about rediscovering joy I didn’t even know existed.”
Same, Philippa. Same.
Sober travel is not about white-knuckling your way through a vacation while everyone else drinks. It’s about discovering that:
- You can have adventure without chaos
- You can remember everything you did
- You can belly laugh, connect deeply, and feel awe—all without alcohol
Add in a small, intentional group; meaningful service; Mayan ceremonies; volcano views; and a founder who truly understands the journey from functioning drunk to joyful sober…and you’ve got a pretty unforgettable experience.
How to Learn More & Book
To explore upcoming dates, pricing, and retreat themes, visit:
???? SoberTravelRetreats.org and @sobertravelretreats on IG
And don’t forget to check The Sober Curator’s Sober Retreats Calendar, curated by Senior Travel Journalist Teresa Bergen, for this and other sober adventures around the world.
If you’ve been waiting for a sign to book your first (or next) sober trip… this might be it. ????✨
WHAT A TRIP! Sober in Guatemala with Antigua 12 with Teresa Bergen
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SOBER RETREATS: with Senior Travel Sober Curator Contributor Teresa Bergen is your go-to space for alcohol-free travel tips, insider guides, and honest reviews from a sober perspective. Teresa blends her passions—animals, wildlife conservation, sustainability, geography, culture, outdoor adventure, and yoga—into enriching travel stories that inspire mindful exploration. From kayaking and hiking to visiting historic cemeteries and sacred spaces, she uncovers the beauty where history, art, and spirituality meet.
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